Bait tank

Tarpon guy · #1 08-27-2007, 09:08 AM

Hey Jerry,

Good thought. Unfortunately, this valve is just a cheap simple design. It needs a little head pressure to function. No big deal though, I'll find one easy enough

mrJB · #2 08-27-2007, 06:50 PM

Tarpon Guy -
I have the "backflow preventer" that you have pictured and have been using it without problems for the past year. Mine is mounted below the pump, which draws water up from a scupper. My pump is 12 volt however, and, after the initial morning priming of the pump it goes all day, on and off (on a timer) while holding it's prime. One thing critical here is that there can not be any air leaks in the line or the pump will suck air instead of water. Threaded connections are not air-leak proof - use teflon tape.Maybe mine's working because of the 12v flow or ?? but that $3+ valve does work for me...
A few other things... a folding lid on the bait tank is not necessary if you have a rim on the top of the tank, i.e., the bait will swim up the side to get out but not jump directly out. In the future, you may reconsider the outflow rather than have scales, etc. all over. If you do, you will need 1 1/2" outlet for full 12 v flow, 1 1/4' for 6 v. or 12 v. on a timer...
The very simplist solution is a bilge pump on a 3' hose, (a "dragger") - no priming, cheaper to buy. The downside is that there is a noticeable bit of drag...
Hope this helps

John

mrJB · #3 08-27-2007, 06:51 PM

Tarpon Guy -
I have the "backflow preventer" that you have pictured and have been using it without problems for the past year. Mine is mounted below the pump, which draws water up from a scupper. My pump is 12 volt however, and, after the initial morning priming of the pump it goes all day, on and off (on a timer) while holding it's prime. One thing critical here is that there can not be any air leaks in the line or the pump will suck air instead of water. Threaded connections are not air-leak proof - use teflon tape.Maybe mine's working because of the 12v flow or ?? but that $3+ valve does work for me...
A few other things... a folding lid on the bait tank is not necessary if you have a rim on the top of the tank, i.e., the bait will swim up the side to get out but not jump directly out. In the future, you may reconsider the outflow rather than have scales, etc. all over. If you do, you will need 1 1/2" outlet for full 12 v flow, 1 1/4' for 6 v. or 12 v. on a timer...
The very simplist solution is a bilge pump on a 3' hose, (a "dragger") - no priming, cheaper to buy. The downside is that there is a noticeable bit of drag...
Hope this helps

John

PerryC · #4 08-27-2007, 06:59 PM

TG,
Alot of electronic whatevers sold as "waterproof" are really "water-resistant" in the real world. I dunno if it's labeling error or intentional some of the times. Most switches are NOT 100% waterproof. If they are installed to be waterproof/water-resistent, water will not under normal circumstances be able to contact the connection blades of the switch and it will have a rubber cover over the button or toggle to keep splash water from entering the internals.

You may not want to go this route, but I keep any switches inside an enclosure of some type like a waterproof box or in the dry bag with the battery. Looks plain Jane and you have to open something to access the switch, but I'll turn it on and leave it on all day so I'm not turning it off and on constantly.

For a anti-siphon valve, I would call the guys at Hooked On Kayaks in Huntington Harbor. They are the old Malibu Kayaks store. I was in there a few weeks ago and I believe they had the individual parts for making bait tanks for sale. The valve they use on their bait tanks works pretty good. Their phone is 562-592-0800 . Andy who runs the shop would probably be the best one to talk to as I think he has used a powered bait tank the most. Hope this helps,
Perry

mrJB · #5 08-27-2007, 07:21 PM

oops... sorry for the double post

Tarpon guy · #6 08-27-2007, 09:25 PM

Thanks guys, for all the tips!

I do have the drain plug installed.

Always use teflon tape! Good stuff. Almost as important in life as duct tape

If it is the same valve, I don't know how it is working. The row of vents around the male threaded end suck air and release water if you try to prime the pump and line. If you block the vents, it might work. Did you block the vents?

Thanks a bunch, Perry. I'll give the guys at Hooked on Kayaks a call, or go by there. I'd like to check them out anyway. I have a drybag for the battery, but I wanted to try the switch close to the pump, for ease of use.
I have a nice solid bubble of goop around the switch, so I think I'll see how it goes as an experiment. What the heck!

Great help from all of you guys. Thanks again

Piranha · #7 08-27-2007, 10:13 PM

Tarpon Guy,
The place Perry's talkin about is the place we went to yesterday and we got the valve. Remember I mentioned Andy being one of the La Jolla superyakkers? Perry, It's now called OEX ,I believe. It's right across the lil sand beach from Sunset Rentals, Kenny's business! Andy sold his ice business and moved up here! He's still the Iceman!

Hi mrJB,

Tarpon Guy said"I built mine like Piranha's. Very simple. I really liked the way he eliminated the whole discharge assembly. I'm a big believer that less is better. following his lead, I just drilled a series of small holes in the bucket, in a horizontal row and let the water cascade down the back of the bucket and then out the yak scupper holes."

Tarpon Guy is copying my tank drain design cause last Friday he saw it in action at Dana, It's crude, almost primitive, but simple and it works very well! The reason I went to the horizontal line of holes is the drain kept getting clogged up with scales when I used a drain tube with a screen. That never happens with these horizontal holes! There are about 15 of them at the exact level I want the water to reach. They're just smaller in diameter than a pinhead anchovy! Works sorta like the overflow on a bathtub! Tarpon Guy(Bob), we'll give it a shakedown test in a few days! Piranha

mrJB · #8 08-27-2007, 10:18 PM

Yes, I blocked the vents with a very large rubber washer between fittings and some goop. Sorry, since it was so long ago I forgot. Also, some Walmarts are still carrying "waterproof" dry boxes - $5 and change for the small one, $7 and change for the large one (a good fit for a battery) which might be an alternative choice to a dry bag...

Tarpon guy · #9 08-28-2007, 07:41 AM

10-4, Piranha.

Ya know, I'm thinkin' the fish are going to be so impressed with our bait tanks, they're just gonna give it up and jump in the yaks

Thanks again guys, for the tips!